Tuesday 14 December 2010

AsSiGNmenT 4

For assignment 4 we were asked to pick 2 of our sources from the previous assignment and summarise and evaluate them. I pick 2 journal articles that i found particulary interesting and valuable, about smoking and the media.

The article “Out of the smokescreen”, aims to assess the effect anti
smoking adverts screened in cinemas have on young women's perception
of smoking. The piece opens by saying that there is a clear link
between the rise of smoking in movies and the tobacco advertising ban.
The tobacco companies have had to come up with new ways to promote
their product to one of their key audiences, females between 12 and
17. Product placement in films aimed at these age groups has been
frowned upon as it has been found that youngsters who idolise stars
who smoke on screen are much more likely to smoke themselves than
those whose role models are non-smokers. It comments “There is
mounting evidence linking Hollywood’s depiction of smoking in movies
and adolescents attitudes to smoking and their smoking behaviour.”
Reading this article poses the question, is the film industry
promoting smoking? Also it looks closely into how influenced we are by
what we see in film and how such subliminal signals can alter peoples
impression and intentions to smoke.
          A study was carried out to see what would happen if an antismoking
advert was played before a film containing heavy smoking. It was to
find out if in fact you can ‘neutralise’ or cancel out the positive
connotations of smoking portrayed in the film. A previous study
carried out by Pechmann found this to be somewhat true. This more
recent research was carried out as teenagers left the cinema, by
asking them to fill out a casual questionnaire about what they had
just seen. The cinema is a medium that can access lots of different
people from many social backgrounds, so it makes sense to use it to
communicate the antismoking message. The findings of the study show
that featuring the antismoking ad significantly changed the audiences
view of smoking in the movie and a large percentage commented when
asked that they perceived the smoking to be ‘not ok’.
           The authors main conclusion is that by showing the advert, they
could convert the teenagers intention to smoke. It is worth noting
though that this view mainly applied to the current non smokers as
fewer present smokers ticked that they would not be smoking this time
next year. “Screening the antismoking advertisement neutralised the
effect of the smoking or intention to smoke in the Pechmann study, as
suggested in our own study.” This though seems a very black and white
view and surely if it was this simple, smoking wouldn't be the problem
in society that it is.  A similar study by Newcastle University found
that showing the anti smoking advert had little or no effect on
smokers desires to quit the habit. Amanda Sandford, of the antismoking
campaign group Ash comments, that extreme care must be taken to make
sure that ads do not have the opposite effect. This raises the
question, is the problem the media promoting smoking or is it the
ineffectiveness of anti smoking campaigns to counteract it?
          Another article called ‘Filthy or fashionable? young people’s
perceptions of smoking in the media’, contradicts  argument. It notes
that most teenagers they surveyed thought that smoking was, ordinary,
acceptable and overall ‘cool’ and even though most were aware of the
heath risks, they chose to ignore them. This enforces that for
youngsters, smoking is primarily about image and that's why the
fashion industry has such an impact on promoting it. It is also
interesting talking to friends that smoke and hearing them completely
dismiss the graphic and shocking warnings printed on cigarette
packets. Research led by psychologist Jochim Hansen of New York
University agrees and suggests that printing slogans linked to illness
and death may actually increase smokers intention to carry on. They
carried out an experiment to see if by printing phrases linked to
image and self-esteem, this would enhance peoples urge to quit. Half
the group read warnings like, “Smoking leads to deadly lung cancer”
and the others along the lines of “Smoking makes you unattractive”,
then the group were asked to fill out a survey on their future smoking
intentions. By far the group who read slogans not linked to mortality
but appearance, were found more likely to be effected by them. "Kids
can't imagine themselves old," says Stanton Glantz, an anti-smoking
activist, therefore this is probably why the gruesome warnings had
little impact, the common ‘it wont happen to me’ attitude. This study
clearly shows a way in which antismoking advertising should change to
be more relevant to young people. Stop lecturing on the health effects
but concentrate on making it as uncool, unattractive and unremarkable
as possible.
          The article “Perceptions of fashion images from youth magazines: does
a cigarette make a difference?”, touches on this point and seems to
agree. “Positive images of smoking abound in advertising, television,
film and magazines, and these may be more in tune with young peoples
self and aspirational images than current health promotion campaigns”
(lynch 1995). It is commenting that we need to shape up our anti
smoking propaganda to be more relevant to today's youth. Much research
has been done into the effectiveness of these campaigns, yet still
understandably models in fashion magazines and stars from popular
films have more of an influence on young people, than the health
professionals and doctors behind these campaigns. People buy fashion
magazines to aspire towards and identify with. Looking at fashionable
models and celebrities smoking help to encourage these positive
perceptions. They make it chic and a create justification for it. The
journal goes on to discuss in more detail young peoples opinions of
such smoking images. The journal is based around an experiment carried
out to find the difference in opinion between 2 identical sets of
pictures, one set including cigarettes and the other without. The
results of the research surprised me. The key word used to describe
the smoking pictures was ‘druggy’ and in complete contrast the primary
word used to describe the non smoking images was ‘healthy’. This seems
unusual as i would have thought that the smoking images would have
been looked upon more favourably. Again these results differed
depending on the teenagers smoking status. It was found that those who
smoked thought themselves as more of a risk taker and dangerous,
therefore concentrating efforts on creating clean cut and well behaved
images of non smoking might actually have the opposite effect. The
articles main conclusion is that there is a real call for images and
adverts that show non smokers with the desirable qualities of smokers.
One advert i can think of which attempts this is the ‘lose the smoke,
keep the fire.’ campaign by nicotinell.
            However this article i don't feel is as reliable as “Out of The
Smokescreen”. This experiment was carried out like Pechmann’s, in a
class room environment. I believe that the teenagers might have been
prompted into their answers by being in the school context. The first
investigation was run in a working cinema during busy holiday period,
so the youngsters would have filled out the questionnaire more
truthfully, making the results more accurate. This therefore is a more
‘real life’ study.                
         Both sources though agree that something is needing to be done to balance out the amount of smoking images we are bombarded with daily. Hye-Jin Paek of UGA Grady College of journalism comments, “Antismoking ads have the greatest impact on smoking
attitudes and behaviour when adolescents think that their peers are
listening to those messages.” This is an interesting point, that again
ties in with the issue of self-esteem. Peer pressure and acceptance
are crucial factors determining teenagers intention to smoke. Another
element that antismoking advertisements could try to tap into. I feel
campaigns need to take a more modern and eye catching approach, as i
can probably count on one hand the memorable adverts i have seen
throughout my teens.
          Through reading and researching I can conclude that young people will
always be lured in by the stylish way smoking is portrayed in the
media. But this isn’t necessarily the problem but the effectiveness of
the antismoking messages produced to attempt to reverse it. The
tradition of hard hitting adverts telling people not to smoke do not
have the desired effects and in teens perhaps in fact create a want.
Both the articles I have looked at have been valuable and have
prompted me to think more about the antismoking campaigns and new ways
this issue can be approached, rather than my initial question, ‘Does
the media promote smoking?’, because whether we like or not it does
and will continue to do so.

Bibliography

Jacobs T. Warnings on cigarette packs could be counter productive.
November 2010. http://www.miller-mccune.com/health/cigarette-warnings-counterproductive
(accessed 12/12/10)

Worth R. Making it uncool - ways to prevent teenage smoking. March
1999. http://findarticles.com/p/articles (accessed 13/12/10)

Smoking ads ‘do not always work’. http://bbc.co.uk (accessed 13/12/10)

Why some anti smoking ads succeed and others backfire. July 2007.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/07/070719170315.htm
(accessed 12/12/10)

Edwards C, Harris W, Cook D, Bedford K, Zuo Y. Out of the Smokescreen:
does an anti-smoking advertisement affect young women’s perception of
smoking in movies and their intention to smoke? Tobacco Control 13,
(2004) 277–282.

Amos A, Currie C, Gray D, Elton R. Perceptions of fashion images from
youth magazines: does a cigarette make a difference? Health Education
and Research.13. (1998) 491-501.

Clarkson, J P, Donovan, R J, Giles-Corti, B, Watson, N A, ‘Filthy or
fashionable? Young people’s perceptions of smoking in the media’,
Health Education Research 18, (2003), 554-567.
 

Tuesday 23 November 2010

TeXTile WEbSiTes

  • http://www.vam.ac.uk/ This is the V&A's website. They have lots of interesting information about past and present exhibitions and designers. This is a jumpsuit by Vivian Westwood i found on their site.


  • http://www.loveandthrift.com/ Clara Vuletich is a printed textile designer and researcher. She is particularly interested in sustainable and recycling textiles. This is a really interesting read and pretty blog!










Monday 22 November 2010

lOokInG Up, LOOkinG DoWn! AsSiGnMEnT 3

Amos.A, ‘Perceptions of fashion images from youth magazines:does a cigarette make a difference?’, Health Education Research 13, (1998), 491-501.
Perceptions of fashion images from youth magazines: does a cigarette make a difference?

This is a really helpful journal about young peoples perceptions of magazine images that include cigarettes. An experiment was carried out to find out the difference in opinion between 2 identical sets of pictures, one set including cigarettes and the other without. Their findings are surprising and very interesting. The smoking pictures were rated as more ‘druggy, wild and depressed’ where as the exact same image without smoking were described as ‘healthy, rich, nice, fashionable, slim and attractive’. But these results were directly related to sex, social back ground and smoking status. This shows how by adding a cigarette, the teenagers views of the photo drastically altered. I find the unhealthy and dangerous description of smoking surprising and the article goes on to agree, commenting on youth magazines positive images of smoking and how it is these magazines are what younger people are looking for to find out what is in style in youth culture and find role models. .Smoking is often used in these magazine spreads to capture a certain mood or image’ (Amos, 1992; Gray et al, 1997). It concludes by saying that there is a call for non smoking images that embody the desirable traits linked with smoking.


Quintero. G, Davis. S,  ‘Why Do Teens Smoke? American Indian and Hispanic Adolescents' Perspectives on Functional Values and Addiction’, Medical Anthropology Quarterly 16, (2002), 439-457.
Why do teens smoke?
‘youths that the large majority of peers and adults use tobacco may well derive from the near-constant exposure youths experience to pro-tobacco messages and images, which make tobacco use seem common’ This statement fits with the argument that the media, including fashion is contributing to the smoking problem in teens. The article also blames peer and parental influences and the perception of smokers as, independent and rebellious. It can be argued that this view is created by product placement in films and fashion publicity.


Carter, OBJ, ‘Impact of smoking images in magazines on the smoking attitudes and intentions of youth: an experimental
Investigation’, Tobacco Control 16, (2007), 368-372.
 Impact of smoking images in magazines on the smoking attitudes and intentions of youth: an experimental investigation

Again this journal comments that commonly smoking is viewed as, attractive, sophisticated, sexy and glamorous and that being exposed to these positive images of smoking will increase the likelihood of a young person smoking. The journal predicts that positive smoking connotations and imagery will, ‘lessen young smokers’ future intentions to quit; increase non-smokers’ future intentions to take up smoking; increase young people’s perceptions of the prevalence of smoking; increase young smokers’ urge to smoke while reading the magazine; and increase young smokers’ positive perceptions of the depicted models but decrease young non-smokers’ positive perceptions of the depicted models.’  This is a very interesting paper that completely backs up the view that magazines are promoting smoking. After a similar study to the one carried out in the ‘Perceptions of fashion images…’ journal, 3 times more non-smokers who viewed a smoking magazine said they would probably try smoking in the future than those who viewed the non-smoking magazine. This is a clear indication that, ‘Smoking imagery increases non-smokers’
intentions to smoke’. This can be linked into my initial question, ‘Does the fashion industry promote smoking?’



Clarkson, J P, Donovan, R J, Giles-Corti, B, Watson, N A, ‘Filthy or fashionable? Young people’s perceptions of smoking in the media’, Health Education Research 18, (2003), 554-567.
Filthy or fashionable? Young people’s perceptions of smoking in the media
This journal was written after a study of how 117 school students viewed images of smoking in the media. The results found that most of them saw it as ordinary,  acceptable and overall ‘cool’. All the students were well aware of the health risks but most seemed to dismiss them. It shows how being bombarded with smoking images has made these young people see it as natural and a part of daily life. Nonchalant, is how the paper describes the teenagers attitudes to smoking. Its interesting how being exposed to something repeatedly or from a young age can create normality in it. We need to counteract this by perhaps trying to display more negative images of smoking in youth culture.

Edwards, C.A, Harris, W.C, Cook, D.R, Bedford, K.F, Zuo, Y, ‘Out of the Smokescreen: does an anti-smoking
advertisement affect young women’s perception of smoking in movies and their intention to smoke?’, Tobacco Control 13, (2004), 277-282.
Out of the Smokescreen: does an anti-smoking advertisement affect young women’s perception of smoking in movies and their intention to smoke?

Since the banning of tobacco advertising, companies have had to think of new ways to target consumers. A key bracket they’ve been keen to attract is females between 12 and 17 and they have been using product placement in films aimed at these audiences. Interestingly there seems to have been a clear increase in the representation of smoking in film after the advertising ban. It has been found that girls whose favourite leading actors are seen smoking are more likely to look positively on smoking than those whose role models are not seen using cigarettes. These researchers conducted a study to see if showing an anti-smoking advert before a film that contained smoking would change the audience’s attitudes.Pechmann and Shih18 showed that
without the presence of an anti-smoking advertisement movie viewers intention to smoke was enhanced by movies with smoking content. Screening the anti-smoking advertisement neutralised the effect of the smoking on intention to smoke in the Pechmann study, as suggested in our own’
study’. Apparently those who saw the ad were more likely to comment negatively when asked about the smoking in the film. I feel this shows that anti smoking campaigns can be effective. There is a lot of argument, saying that showing graphic images of health problems caused by smoking are not going to deter most people to take up or continue the habit. ‘there was a significantly higher percentage of current smokers who said they were unlikely to be smoking this time next year’. So this concludes that even if anti smoking campaigns wont stop smokers intentions to smoke they do counteract/cancel out the attractive qualities portrayed in film. This theory could also work with magazines, by printing an anti-smoking advert near an image of a model smoking.

Flay .B.R,  Differential Influence of Parental Smoking and Friends' Smoking on Adolescent Initiation and Escalation and Smoking’, Journal of Health and Social Behaviour 35, (1994), 248-265.
Differential Influence of Parental Smoking and Friends' Smoking on Adolescent Initiation and Escalation and Smoking

This time looking more into the influences towards teen smoking, other than the media. This journal argues that taking up smoking is influenced more by the behaviour of others, especially heath behaviours. Both parents and friends are big influences and the report comments that during teenage years bonds with peers grow stronger whilst those with parents weaken. It also comments that 'girls might be more susceptible to social influences'. Fashion and magazines target audience is women so including smoking could have more of an effect towards their intention to smoke.

 

Tuesday 9 November 2010

dOES tHe FashIoN IndUStRy StiLL PRoMoTe SmOKIng? Seminar 2


For seminar 2 the aim of the game was to look into our chosen chapters of 'The Tipping Point', in more detail. In groups we brain stormed and discussed the deeper issues and our thoughts and opinions on the subject. Our group decided to focus on the chapter, 'Suicides, smoking and the unsticky cigarette' and found ourselves concentrating on the issue of smoking. During our discussion some interesting points and questions were raised such as; is smoking really an issue? (In reference to the 'Nanny state') Why can't we pin point what exactly it is that makes people think its cool? Could we change the appearance of a cigarette to make it less appealing? Why is smoking still seen as a fashion accessory?  This last point made me think and i decided to do some more research into whether the fashion and fags still went hand in hand, and to my surprise many people still believe that they do. I read some interesting articles from both online newspapers and personal blogs. It is interesting to read that many fashion designers are more than happy to use cigarettes in their advertising and generally associate their product with smoking. For example Gucci's handbags been photographed covered in ash and leading high street chain Jack Wills using cigarettes in their window displays. Also Vogue which has been described as 'the worlds most influential fashion magazine', continues to feature models smoking on its pages. They say that the cigarette is the perfect prop or accessory and has been described as 'a high heel for the arm'. As Jess Carter-Morley from the Guardian comments, 'Fashion models, like teenagers, smoke for effect...The point is how the cigarette makes you look'. I'm not sure if just because a beautiful model is smoking in Vogue that it would make me want to smoke, but its this subliminal messaging that if you smoke you'll be as cool, dangerous and striking that is encouraging people to take up the habit.

Here is my finished poster.


Friday 5 November 2010

MAkE thInGs maKE SenSE

Hazel White, head of the masters program, gave us a personal lecture about her experiences of jewellery and digital design and her aim to connect the two. Some of the points she made were very interesting, for example geneotypes. A geneotype represents the genes of an idea that can take things to the next stage. This reminded me of what we have been doing with mind mapping, writing every idea down however ridiculous and then somehow finding a few good ideas amongst the mess. Another point that interested me was her idea that you don't know how people really view Scotland until you leave. I have by no means ever wanted to stay in Scotland all my life but i have never been the kind of person really eager to travel the world. However this has made me wonder what i might learn about my home country by looking at it through other peoples eyes. When discussing work for seminar 2, we talked about the idea of smoking in Paris and how it is portrayed as glamorous and nostalgic. I now wonder how the Parisians see it? Probably just as much of a strain on their health service and litter problem as we do, yet we romanticise it in Paris. Overall i found the lecture quite interesting, Hazel talked a lot about wearable computing and much of her work has been focused on creating digital jewellery. She mentioned how when experimenting with adding light to pieces she had to drill a hole in a Victorian locket. This would have broken my heart. The locket looked far more beautiful before the LED bulb was randomly inserted. As a lover of jewellery i don't know if i particularly want it to have a function or a purpose, i think i simply want it to be beautiful.

oR ELsE...

Last weeks lecture on 'Good design, Bad Design' and personally made me think about perception and stereotypes. It was interesting when we were shown old adverts and children's illustrations of family life and how stereotypical they were of both womens and mens roles. Also the story about how throughout his childhood, cowboys with White hats were good and black hats were bad. This shows how the media, television and advertising can create and manipulate our perceptions of things from a very young age. I thought it was good when Jonathan mentioned he was trying to provoke through this lecture. I think this was a effective way of creating interest and making me think about the reasons why it may provoke people and if indeed i felt strongly about it myself.

Tuesday 26 October 2010

ThE TiPpiNg PoINt

Recently we were asked to read 'The Tipping Point' by Malcom Gladwell. The book is about how small changes can completely alter an outcome! For example by employing the Broken Windows Theory, the idea that minor crimes lead to major ones and that if you tackle such things as graffiti the serious crimes will lessen. This was proved to be true when the scheme was tried out in New York City during one of their worst crime epidemics and the crime rate fell dramatically and rapidly. This shows how important context can be. A point related to this that i found particularly interesting was the idea that it was better for a child to grow up in a bad family and a good neighbourhood, than a bad neighbourhood and a good family! There were many other interesting sections such as the one on teen smoking and the 'Stickiness Factor'. The 'Stickiness Factor' is something that is mentioned a lot as Gladwell attempts to find out what makes things stick. What makes something tip into fashionable or become a global sensation. He explains there are many reasons and often it take a combination of these things, such as context that makes things tip. 'The Tipping Point' is a challenging but thought provoking book, which encourages the reader to consider the minor factors that spark major trends.


This is my mind map on the whole of 'The Tipping Point'.

This is my mind map on my favourite section- The Power of Context.

Harvard Bibliography on The Power of Context pages 133-141

Fletcher, G P 1988, A Crime of Self Defense, Free Press, New York.

Rubin, L 1986, Quiet Rage: Bernie Goetz in a Time of Madness, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, New York.

Both of these sources are detailed accounts of the events that unfolded on the 22nd of December 1984. Gladwell has included many quotes from the sources to set the scene, some from witnesses and some from Goetz himself. It is interesting to hear an accurate description of some of the things said. Obviously these sources are extremely detailed as Gladwell describes Goetz’s parting movements. ‘He walked through the doorway at the front of the car, unhooked the safety chain, and jumped down onto the tracks, disappearing into the dark of the tunnel.’  I think these references were probably very beneficial to the author when later trying to asses Goetz motivations for reaching his tipping point. They also gave the reader more insight.

Massing, M 1998, The Blue Revolution, New York Review of Books, New York.

This book focuses primarily on New York crime statistics. It is interesting to read the true extent of the crime problems in the city. It also creates an effective in depth picture of the subway conditions and of the vast scale of the epidemic. Often statistics confuse matters but in this case I find them very valuable.

Bratton, W 1998, Turnaround: How America’s Top Cop Reversed the Crime Epidemic, Random House, New York.

Gladwell uses this source as evidence of an outsider’s view of the subway network. ‘It was like going into the transit version of Dante’s Inferno.’ I think this is beneficial as Bratton uses descriptive language to take the reader through his experience step by step. Also I feel it is significant  that he is not a New Yorker and perhaps gives a more reliable point of view, unlike residents who may have grown to accept the conditions. I think this was a well chosen quotation that has some shock factor.

Gladwell, M 1996 ‘The Tipping Point’, The New Yorker, 3 June p. 32-39.

Bratton, W & Andrews, W 1999, ‘What We’ve Learned About Policing’ City Journal, Spring p. 25.

In this section Gladwell is considering some of the reasons that crime has declined so rapidly. This source seems to have been useful in explaining this from the Polices point of view. He is listing things that could have been factors but comments that the Police believe there was ‘something else’.

Kelling, G L & Coles, C M 1996, Fixing Broken Windows, Touchstone, New York.

This source is used to illustrate the Broken Windows Theory. This is the theory that lesser crimes inevitably lead to more serious ones. Gladwell has quoted a section of their book to reiterate the concept that crime is contagious. It is also a valuable source as it was written by criminologists who would have spent years studying the inner workings of criminals. 



Tuesday 19 October 2010

hOW diD i MIsS THis?


On the 29th of September White Stuff were offering 10% off to all customers who were wearing a tea cosy on their head and  throughout the day were donating 10% of their profits to their own 'White Stuff Foundation'. This quirky fundraising gimmick is similar to the 'Give a Gnome a Home' campaign they ran last year to raise money for St Richards Hospice. They encouraged customers to adopt garden gnomes from their window displays and also sold limited edition gnome tea towels. I was lucky enough to be bought one of these by my sister and it took pride of place on the back of my bed room door! I really like the fun charity fundraisers White Stuff come up with. If I'd known i would have definitely worn my tea cosy!


Monday 18 October 2010

So MUcH fabRiC, SO littLe TImE!

My granny is a magpie for fabrics, buttons, bobbins and beads. 'Celias room' as she calls it is like an Aladdin's cave for all things arty and crafty and often on visits we would go up and play with all her collections, my favourite game was playing pick and mix with the button box! About 2 years ago she gave me a pile of material to take home with me and this i recon was the start of my fabric fixation! Since then i have been glued to the sewing machine and have begun turning some of the fabric into kitch cards and have had success selling them in my mums shop. Here are a few pictures of the current range i am selling. I think they are getting steadily better in design and quality the more i do them.

'One Lump Or Two'


'Time For Tea'
I love the vintage patterns in all the fabrics i was given. Some of them are over 50 years old yet with the growing popularity of designers such as Cath Kidston  http://www.cathkidston.co.uk they are back in fashion!
'So Tweet'
'Sew In Love With You'
 I have been experimenting by writing with the sewing machine and feel as i practice i am gaining more and more control. I am really pleased with the stitched text in this one in particular!
'You Light Up My Life'

'Home sweet Home'
When i make the cards i don't really have a plan before i start. I just have a general idea and see where the stitching takes me. I think it is really important for the success of the design that the prints both contrast and compliment each other.

I am really excited to make a Christmas range. I'm thinking stitched Christmas puddings!

Thursday 14 October 2010

PhOTosHoP

You know how i said i wouldn't be producing technical work...does photoshop count as 'Technical'? Well here's my attempt and surprisingly it has gone better than i expected. So after countless packets of wine gums eaten slyly under the desk and a few headaches later, this is what I've come up with!


This one is my favourite. I'm a sucker for a polka dot!


Wednesday 13 October 2010

sO TecHNiCaL

After much procrastination i have decided to give blogging a go. Everything is becoming increasingly technical and however hard I've tried to resist it, i think it may be time to start giving in. Only a wee bit though and this blog is the 1st step to taking me into the 21st Century! 
I intend to use this blog to show off pretty things I've found and some of my own work, neither of which will be of the technical variety i shouldn't think. Or maybe i might just surprise myself!
Talking of technical...this is a website my younger sister made for my mums jewellery boutique!  http://www.iloveboho.co.uk/  Its an lovely, artistic website that totally captures what Boho is about and whats more is she taught herself completely on her own how to make it. Oh how jealous i am...