Tuesday 23 November 2010

TeXTile WEbSiTes

  • http://www.vam.ac.uk/ This is the V&A's website. They have lots of interesting information about past and present exhibitions and designers. This is a jumpsuit by Vivian Westwood i found on their site.


  • http://www.loveandthrift.com/ Clara Vuletich is a printed textile designer and researcher. She is particularly interested in sustainable and recycling textiles. This is a really interesting read and pretty blog!










Monday 22 November 2010

lOokInG Up, LOOkinG DoWn! AsSiGnMEnT 3

Amos.A, ‘Perceptions of fashion images from youth magazines:does a cigarette make a difference?’, Health Education Research 13, (1998), 491-501.
Perceptions of fashion images from youth magazines: does a cigarette make a difference?

This is a really helpful journal about young peoples perceptions of magazine images that include cigarettes. An experiment was carried out to find out the difference in opinion between 2 identical sets of pictures, one set including cigarettes and the other without. Their findings are surprising and very interesting. The smoking pictures were rated as more ‘druggy, wild and depressed’ where as the exact same image without smoking were described as ‘healthy, rich, nice, fashionable, slim and attractive’. But these results were directly related to sex, social back ground and smoking status. This shows how by adding a cigarette, the teenagers views of the photo drastically altered. I find the unhealthy and dangerous description of smoking surprising and the article goes on to agree, commenting on youth magazines positive images of smoking and how it is these magazines are what younger people are looking for to find out what is in style in youth culture and find role models. .Smoking is often used in these magazine spreads to capture a certain mood or image’ (Amos, 1992; Gray et al, 1997). It concludes by saying that there is a call for non smoking images that embody the desirable traits linked with smoking.


Quintero. G, Davis. S,  ‘Why Do Teens Smoke? American Indian and Hispanic Adolescents' Perspectives on Functional Values and Addiction’, Medical Anthropology Quarterly 16, (2002), 439-457.
Why do teens smoke?
‘youths that the large majority of peers and adults use tobacco may well derive from the near-constant exposure youths experience to pro-tobacco messages and images, which make tobacco use seem common’ This statement fits with the argument that the media, including fashion is contributing to the smoking problem in teens. The article also blames peer and parental influences and the perception of smokers as, independent and rebellious. It can be argued that this view is created by product placement in films and fashion publicity.


Carter, OBJ, ‘Impact of smoking images in magazines on the smoking attitudes and intentions of youth: an experimental
Investigation’, Tobacco Control 16, (2007), 368-372.
 Impact of smoking images in magazines on the smoking attitudes and intentions of youth: an experimental investigation

Again this journal comments that commonly smoking is viewed as, attractive, sophisticated, sexy and glamorous and that being exposed to these positive images of smoking will increase the likelihood of a young person smoking. The journal predicts that positive smoking connotations and imagery will, ‘lessen young smokers’ future intentions to quit; increase non-smokers’ future intentions to take up smoking; increase young people’s perceptions of the prevalence of smoking; increase young smokers’ urge to smoke while reading the magazine; and increase young smokers’ positive perceptions of the depicted models but decrease young non-smokers’ positive perceptions of the depicted models.’  This is a very interesting paper that completely backs up the view that magazines are promoting smoking. After a similar study to the one carried out in the ‘Perceptions of fashion images…’ journal, 3 times more non-smokers who viewed a smoking magazine said they would probably try smoking in the future than those who viewed the non-smoking magazine. This is a clear indication that, ‘Smoking imagery increases non-smokers’
intentions to smoke’. This can be linked into my initial question, ‘Does the fashion industry promote smoking?’



Clarkson, J P, Donovan, R J, Giles-Corti, B, Watson, N A, ‘Filthy or fashionable? Young people’s perceptions of smoking in the media’, Health Education Research 18, (2003), 554-567.
Filthy or fashionable? Young people’s perceptions of smoking in the media
This journal was written after a study of how 117 school students viewed images of smoking in the media. The results found that most of them saw it as ordinary,  acceptable and overall ‘cool’. All the students were well aware of the health risks but most seemed to dismiss them. It shows how being bombarded with smoking images has made these young people see it as natural and a part of daily life. Nonchalant, is how the paper describes the teenagers attitudes to smoking. Its interesting how being exposed to something repeatedly or from a young age can create normality in it. We need to counteract this by perhaps trying to display more negative images of smoking in youth culture.

Edwards, C.A, Harris, W.C, Cook, D.R, Bedford, K.F, Zuo, Y, ‘Out of the Smokescreen: does an anti-smoking
advertisement affect young women’s perception of smoking in movies and their intention to smoke?’, Tobacco Control 13, (2004), 277-282.
Out of the Smokescreen: does an anti-smoking advertisement affect young women’s perception of smoking in movies and their intention to smoke?

Since the banning of tobacco advertising, companies have had to think of new ways to target consumers. A key bracket they’ve been keen to attract is females between 12 and 17 and they have been using product placement in films aimed at these audiences. Interestingly there seems to have been a clear increase in the representation of smoking in film after the advertising ban. It has been found that girls whose favourite leading actors are seen smoking are more likely to look positively on smoking than those whose role models are not seen using cigarettes. These researchers conducted a study to see if showing an anti-smoking advert before a film that contained smoking would change the audience’s attitudes.Pechmann and Shih18 showed that
without the presence of an anti-smoking advertisement movie viewers intention to smoke was enhanced by movies with smoking content. Screening the anti-smoking advertisement neutralised the effect of the smoking on intention to smoke in the Pechmann study, as suggested in our own’
study’. Apparently those who saw the ad were more likely to comment negatively when asked about the smoking in the film. I feel this shows that anti smoking campaigns can be effective. There is a lot of argument, saying that showing graphic images of health problems caused by smoking are not going to deter most people to take up or continue the habit. ‘there was a significantly higher percentage of current smokers who said they were unlikely to be smoking this time next year’. So this concludes that even if anti smoking campaigns wont stop smokers intentions to smoke they do counteract/cancel out the attractive qualities portrayed in film. This theory could also work with magazines, by printing an anti-smoking advert near an image of a model smoking.

Flay .B.R,  Differential Influence of Parental Smoking and Friends' Smoking on Adolescent Initiation and Escalation and Smoking’, Journal of Health and Social Behaviour 35, (1994), 248-265.
Differential Influence of Parental Smoking and Friends' Smoking on Adolescent Initiation and Escalation and Smoking

This time looking more into the influences towards teen smoking, other than the media. This journal argues that taking up smoking is influenced more by the behaviour of others, especially heath behaviours. Both parents and friends are big influences and the report comments that during teenage years bonds with peers grow stronger whilst those with parents weaken. It also comments that 'girls might be more susceptible to social influences'. Fashion and magazines target audience is women so including smoking could have more of an effect towards their intention to smoke.

 

Tuesday 9 November 2010

dOES tHe FashIoN IndUStRy StiLL PRoMoTe SmOKIng? Seminar 2


For seminar 2 the aim of the game was to look into our chosen chapters of 'The Tipping Point', in more detail. In groups we brain stormed and discussed the deeper issues and our thoughts and opinions on the subject. Our group decided to focus on the chapter, 'Suicides, smoking and the unsticky cigarette' and found ourselves concentrating on the issue of smoking. During our discussion some interesting points and questions were raised such as; is smoking really an issue? (In reference to the 'Nanny state') Why can't we pin point what exactly it is that makes people think its cool? Could we change the appearance of a cigarette to make it less appealing? Why is smoking still seen as a fashion accessory?  This last point made me think and i decided to do some more research into whether the fashion and fags still went hand in hand, and to my surprise many people still believe that they do. I read some interesting articles from both online newspapers and personal blogs. It is interesting to read that many fashion designers are more than happy to use cigarettes in their advertising and generally associate their product with smoking. For example Gucci's handbags been photographed covered in ash and leading high street chain Jack Wills using cigarettes in their window displays. Also Vogue which has been described as 'the worlds most influential fashion magazine', continues to feature models smoking on its pages. They say that the cigarette is the perfect prop or accessory and has been described as 'a high heel for the arm'. As Jess Carter-Morley from the Guardian comments, 'Fashion models, like teenagers, smoke for effect...The point is how the cigarette makes you look'. I'm not sure if just because a beautiful model is smoking in Vogue that it would make me want to smoke, but its this subliminal messaging that if you smoke you'll be as cool, dangerous and striking that is encouraging people to take up the habit.

Here is my finished poster.


Friday 5 November 2010

MAkE thInGs maKE SenSE

Hazel White, head of the masters program, gave us a personal lecture about her experiences of jewellery and digital design and her aim to connect the two. Some of the points she made were very interesting, for example geneotypes. A geneotype represents the genes of an idea that can take things to the next stage. This reminded me of what we have been doing with mind mapping, writing every idea down however ridiculous and then somehow finding a few good ideas amongst the mess. Another point that interested me was her idea that you don't know how people really view Scotland until you leave. I have by no means ever wanted to stay in Scotland all my life but i have never been the kind of person really eager to travel the world. However this has made me wonder what i might learn about my home country by looking at it through other peoples eyes. When discussing work for seminar 2, we talked about the idea of smoking in Paris and how it is portrayed as glamorous and nostalgic. I now wonder how the Parisians see it? Probably just as much of a strain on their health service and litter problem as we do, yet we romanticise it in Paris. Overall i found the lecture quite interesting, Hazel talked a lot about wearable computing and much of her work has been focused on creating digital jewellery. She mentioned how when experimenting with adding light to pieces she had to drill a hole in a Victorian locket. This would have broken my heart. The locket looked far more beautiful before the LED bulb was randomly inserted. As a lover of jewellery i don't know if i particularly want it to have a function or a purpose, i think i simply want it to be beautiful.

oR ELsE...

Last weeks lecture on 'Good design, Bad Design' and personally made me think about perception and stereotypes. It was interesting when we were shown old adverts and children's illustrations of family life and how stereotypical they were of both womens and mens roles. Also the story about how throughout his childhood, cowboys with White hats were good and black hats were bad. This shows how the media, television and advertising can create and manipulate our perceptions of things from a very young age. I thought it was good when Jonathan mentioned he was trying to provoke through this lecture. I think this was a effective way of creating interest and making me think about the reasons why it may provoke people and if indeed i felt strongly about it myself.